In Roman times, travellers from London would cross the River Lea at its lowest point to reach the main road to Colchester, and it is at this crossing that today’s Stratford lies. Colchester, like London, was an important Roman town, and the medieval name ‘Stratford’ means ‘the ford where the Roman Road crosses the river’. So throughout history, as now, Stratford was a hub from which to set out to different places.
It later became the point at which Essex and
London met, and since then has sometimes been
regarded as part of Essex and, latterly, as part
of London.
Although Stratford is not specifically listed in
the Domesday Book of 1086, there is mention of
eight watermills along this part of the Lea –
the highest concentration in Essex. The Domesday
Book also records the Manor of (West) Ham, with
a population of 130.
In around 1100, Queen Maud, wife of Henry I,
commissioned the construction of Bow Bridge –
which landed on the western, or London side of
the River Lea at Stratford-atte-Bow (now Bow)
and on the eastern side at Stratford Langthorne
(now Stratford). One of the first arched bridges
built in England since the Roman occupation,
this bridge was a technological wonder for the
period. The original bridge was demolished in
1835, at which time the great Roman Road from
Colchester to London was diverted through
Stratford.
In 1134, William de Montfitchet founded an Abbey
at Stratford Langthorne, where there was also a
mill, using the power of the Lea. Abbey Mill is
therefore a very old local name.
In one of Stratford’s most famous literary
references, the 14th century poet Geoffrey
Chaucer mentions Stratford-atte-Bowe in his
General Prologue to the Canterbury Tales, when
the narrator compares the French accent taught
in its Abbey with that spoken in Paris. In his
comment he gently mocks the turn of phrase of
the Prioress, one of the band of pilgrims
travelling to Canterbury. Today, with many
native French speakers from Africa and elsewhere
living in Newham, and with the new international
station soon to be built, French Stratford-style
is on the up again.
In the 14th century, slaughter-houses were
banned from London because of noise, and were
moved out to Stratford and Bow. This theme
continued: land was cheap, accessible and free
from city restrictions; and so many parts of the
East End were treated for long periods as the
backyard of London.
On the 27th June 1556, during the rule of the
Tudor Queen Mary, a terrible event took place at
Stratford. Eleven men and two women, later known
as the Stratford Martyrs, were brought from
Newgate and burnt at the stake on a single fire
for their ‘protestant beliefs’. Stratford Green,
the place of their execution, was near the site
of today’s St John’s Church (built in 1834),
where a memorial was erected during the 19th
century.
One anecdote reveals a more light-hearted aspect
of Stratford’s Tudor history. In 1600, the
famous Shakespearean actor, theatre entrepreneur
and comic Will Kemp is said to have wagered that
he could dance all the way from London to
Norwich. Accompanied by his tabor-player and by
a minder who made sure that he obeyed the rules,
Kemp set off through the City, Whitechapel and
the East End, followed by crowds of curious
onlookers, and did indeed dance through
Stratford on his month-long journey to Norfolk.
During the 17th century, early industrial
activities grew up along banks of the Lea. These
included silk weaving, calico printing, the
manufacture of Bow porcelain (using product from
slaughter houses), distilling and gun-powder
making. In 1722 Daniel Defoe noted the rapid
growth of Stratford. The rest of the area was
made up of small agricultural hamlets and the
large houses of city merchants at places such as
Plaistow, Church Lane, Forest Gate and Upton.
At this period, corn was brought from Essex to
watermills and windmills in the area. The flour
was used to bake large quantities of bread in
ovens fired with Epping Forest wood – a shrewd
business for Stratford wishing to trade inside
London, since the bakers there were exempt from
city controls. Cattle were also brought to
Stratford from the Eastern Counties for
slaughter and onward transit to London. So not
only was Stratford a pioneer in industry, but
also in modern commerce.
But it was in the 19th century that
industrialisation really took over – and not
entirely to Stratford’s advantage. The 1844
Metropolitan Building Act severely limited many
toxic and noxious industries from operating in
London and Middlesex. As a result, many of these
dirty processes were moved across the Essex
border to Stratford and West Ham. Industries
included rendering animal carcasses for tallow,
soap and glue, chemical plants for acids,
pharmaceuticals or printing inks. Today’s plans
for Stratford City include a commitment to a
clean environment and energy efficiency – a far
cry from the days of the ‘dark satanic mills’.
The 19th century saw the birth of the railways
and in 1839 the Eastern Counties Railway line
started operating, with a route through
Stratford. A few years later the main works of
the Great Eastern Railway opened on the area
that became known as the Rail Lands. Built up
under George Hudson, the ‘railway king’, the
78-acre site employed 6000 people. It built
locomotives and carriages, and even printed
tickets and assembled goods such as cutlery for
passenger catering. Later, from the 1920s
onwards, the Rail Lands were used as a depot for
the repair and maintenance of railway engines of
all kinds.
In the 1850s, Plaistow, Stratford, Upton,
Canning Town and Forest Gate merged into one,
and West Ham became the eighth biggest town in
the UK. As local industry grew, so did the
area’s population, trebling between the 1840s
and the 1860s. Conditions for many during the
19th century were squalid, and there was severe
deprivation. With open sewers running at the
bottom of crowded streets, cholera was common.
It was thus not surprising that Stratford became
the cradle of trades unions and socialism in the
UK; and Keir Hardie became the first ever Labour
MP when he was elected to represent West Ham in
1892.
The interwar years were especially hard in
Stratford. Unemployment reached record levels,
and poverty was rife. Such was people’s despair
that hunger marches, demonstrations and riots
took place in the borough. At the same time,
foreign settlers were arriving in Newham,
especially from Asia and the Caribbean. Fascism
raised its head, and though support was strong
enough to cause real concern, when Oswald Mosley
spoke at a meeting in Stratford Town Hall in
July 1935, he was drowned out by several hundred
protesters.
As war broke out in 1939, there was mass
evacuation from Stratford, which along with the
whole of East London and the Docks suffered
terribly during the Blitz and throughout the
war. Amazingly, the number of civilian dead in
the area was just 1,700 – a tribute to the
efficiency of the air raid shelters rather than
the deadly efficacy of the German bombs.
The war ended and then came a massive rebuilding
programme followed, sadly, by economic decline
and, eventually, the closure of the Royal Docks.
In 1965, East Ham and West Ham amalgamated to
form the London Borough of Newham, and at this
point the area’s 1000-year link with Essex was
broken.
In the late 1960s, a first wave of regeneration
was a mixed blessing, destroying much of the old
street grid of Stratford and a key social focal
point around Angel Lane, but also bringing the
shopping centre. The London Freight Terminal
took over the Rail Lands site in 1967, providing
some employment for local people. It continued
to operate until new plans were made for the
area at the end of the 1990s.
During the 1990s, a tremendous effort by local
people brought about major regeneration in
Stratford, leading to the new station and bus
station, a brighter town centre, the new library
and a cultural quarter consisting of a brand new
cinema, Stratford Circus (a busy performing arts
venue) and the revived Theatre Royal Stratford
East. Today’s Stratford is full of life and
optimism.

